Ribblesdale is synonymous with the Yorkshire Three Peaks and the iconic Ribblehead Viaduct. Thousands flock here every year to embark on one of North Yorkshire’s most classic (and most challenging) hikes, but the rest of the area is much quieter. And yet, it’s equally lovely (if not more so) than the sometimes bleak landscapes of Whernside, Ingleborough and Pen-y-Ghent.
Being on the opposite side of the Dales to us, we don’t visit Ribblesdale nearly as much as we would like to. A brief foray into the Forest of Bowland a few years ago presented us with the opportunity to stop off in Settle to hike up to Attermire Scar, which impressed me so much with its fantastically rocky and jagged outcrops, and this year I was keen to make the most of the good weather to complete another new hike in the area.
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After a rather grey and drizzly walk up to Booze Moor the week before, I was determined to get in a hike with show stopping views to make the most of the cracking weather forecast. Perusing our Pocket Mountains guide to the Yorkshire Dales (which I was prepared to give another chance, as the author couldn’t have predicted the total destruction of the path on the Booze walk three years after the guide was published), I picked out a 9km circular route. We started from the village of Stainforth and used the Dales High Way to visit the tiny hamlet of Feizor, looping back to the start via the limestone outcrop of Smearsett Scar. I can’t find the same route online, but this longer route on the Walking Englishman site covers about half of it.
We arrived early after a beautiful drive across the Dales: I really am desperately trying to wring every last drop out of summer. The car park in Stainforth was totally empty when we arrived at 8.30am, despite it being a sunny Sunday and the spaces by the Ribblehead viaduct being well on their way to filling up when we drove past. The route immediately picks up a path along the river, and with it only being a five minute detour we couldn’t resist an immediate diversion to have a look at the waterfall at Stainforth Force.
I must admit to finding the waterfall a little underwhelming: it just doesn’t have the same ‘wow’ factor as other waterfalls in the Dales like Hardraw Force or Mill Gill. I expect the lack of rain recently hasn’t helped with the drop in water pressure, but it’s a pretty enough spot and the dogs enjoyed having a paddle. We also had it to ourselves, which I don’t think is often the case – walking back past it later on it was extremely busy with lots of families paddling and picnicking along the water’s edge.
Back on the main route, we picked up the Dales High Way, climbing steadily to come alongside the rocky ridge of Smearsett Scar. I have to say the views from this point were fabulous the entire way around – although a clear blue sky always helps. With the path levelling out before dropping down into Feizor, we were treated to far reaching views across Lunesdale and the Forest of Bowland, before being greeted on arrival in the village with Elaine’s Tea Rooms.
Tempted as we were, the tea room was fairly busy and so we didn’t stop. The dogs did take advantage of the water bowl which they kindly put out for passing pooches, and then we wandered through the village to pick up the footpath climbing out along the edge of Feizor Wood.
This is another steady climb, more of a stroll really, and on cresting the brow of the hill you get a cracking view across to Pen-y-Ghent. This view only gets better and better as the walk continues: I snapped hundreds of photos on this stretch. The path becomes grassy but was still easy enough going, and eventually you get the option to detour up to the top of Smearsett Scar.
The walk up to the trig pillar isn’t really marked on the map, just keep your eyes peeled for faint grassy trails running up the side of the hill. We picked up some wheel marks which took us all the way to the top, and then a trail running along the ridge took us to the trig. And of course, the views remained outstanding, across to Ingleborough and Moughton Scar as well as Pen-y-Ghent. The trig has panoramic views and we stopped here to soak it all in for a minute, as well as having a quick snack break. It feels like a rare pleasure these days to have a trig entirely to yourself!
Descending wasn’t steep even coming off the hill (although I do think calling it a hill is perhaps a stretch), and then we were back on the public footpath to descend very gradually back towards Stainforth. Having been extremely lucky up to this point, our luck ran out in the very last field to find a group of cows snoozing on both sides of the path. Being one to deploy rational thought in times like these, I assessed the situation and decided that climbing over the tumbledown wall into the neighbouring channel and wading through 5 metres of shoulder high nettles was the best option available here. Then, it was a quiet walk down a lane (still with lovely views) back to the start.
Dog friendly rating: 2.5/5. Like many walks in the Yorkshire Dales, you can expect to come across livestock for nearly the entirety of this walk (both sheep and cows). There’s no water on the route other than the bowl which Elaine’s tea room had put out, and our quick detour to Stainforth Force, so we were very glad to have taken extra water for the dogs on a warm day. There’s a bit of road walking on quiet lanes at the start and end, including passing by a house where we got barked at (on the other side of the fence) by the resident dogs. The main reason why I haven’t rated this more highly though is the number of stiles: I stopped counting after 7. This includes several ladder stiles which most dogs will need some sort of help with, although some are steps built into dry stone walls (which ours generally managed OK, although there was one where Coal ended up needing a lift).
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